The return of international travel has brought about the revival of cruise collections and destination resort shows. Chanel’s new cruise collection was unveiled in Monaco recently. After its show in Greece last summer, Dior will present its cruise collection to Spain. Today, Louis Vuitton will show its cruise collection in California. Yes, the jet-set is back and boldly fashionable.
There are pros and cons to the resort collection cruises and return to destination shows.
It is thrilling to return to the beauty and elegance of cruise collections and international travel. However, after the global COVID-19 lockdowns, it was surprising that destination shows came back the way they did. Many designers stopped to reflect on the fashion industry’s constant pace and sustainability during the lockdown. A few brands produce six collections per year, including spring/summer/fall/winter, fall/winter and pre-fall. There are also two couture collections.
When resort and cruise show cancellations began to happen, 2020 was when one of the most important questions was answered. Cruise shows and resorts were becoming less sustainable. This was because they brought editors, buyers and stylists from all over the globe, which contributed to the increase in greenhouse gas emissions. Now that the resort and cruise seasons are back in full force, it’s back to business.
Let’s look at the history of the resort- and cruise collection design before moving on. These collections were holiday extensions for luxury fashion companies. The holiday season is when jet-setters travel to luxury resorts and take their winter homes as a retreat. It is a waste to stay in the cold when you have the option of escaping. In the 1920s, they started as small collections to offer customers a few options for beach weather. But, over time, they have grown into full-scale collections worthy of being showcased on runways and attended by A-list celebrities and fashion editors.
When the fashion industry is already saturated, how can we return to business as usual with resort shows? Vogue Business reported Fashion Month attendees contribute more carbon emissions than the entire country by contributing 241,000 tons of indirect costs to flights, supply chains and production resources.
Many fashion industry workers complained that the runway collection’s magic was lost on the screen. It’s hard to capture the magic of runway shows in person. However, as the fashion industry strives to become carbon neutral, it is uncertain what the future holds for resort and cruise collections.
Some markets require resorts and cruises. The fall/winter statement coats, cashmere sweaters, and cashmere sweaters that luxury brands offer in South Asia, Latin America, the Middle East and South Asia are not suitable for these markets. These markets are home to many retailers and buyers who need resort and cruise collections to keep their shops open.
Also, resort and cruise collections are extremely profitable. Chanel revealed that cruise and resort collections account for 30 per cent of its revenue from November through May. Gucci is one of the brands that has decided to forgo resort and cruise collections in favour of two off-season shows that have enough product to keep stores open six months at a stretch.
Most brands will continue to follow the traditional resort/cruise collection schedule. Buyers and editors recognize the importance of cruise collections. If people shop, they will continue to be able to rely on resorts and cruises. These shows will hopefully consider the environmental impact of production in the future.